学科:科学技术史. 非物质文化遗产,出版时间:2018,导师:扎格尔指导,学位授予单位:内蒙古师范大学,论文作者:金良著,副题名:,学科专业:,关键词:,馆藏号:,
中文
蒙古族由来已久的饮食习俗作为中国北方游牧民族饮食文化的重要组成部分,以其丰富的文化内涵和独特的制作技艺而举世瞩目,并在世界各民族饮食文化中具有重要地位。蒙古族饮食文化相关研究成果颇丰,其中肉食加工技艺专题研究较少,研究成果比较零散不够深入。 长期以来,肉食在蒙古族饮食生活中占据重要地位。蒙古族肉食加工技艺的产生、丰富和发展同他们世代生存的蒙古高原自然地理环境、生产方式、饮食结构紧密相关。这些传统技艺具有浓厚的地域和民族特色,它们来自生活,又服务于生活,是蒙古民族集体智慧的结晶。随着社会的变迁和现代科技的发展,传统技艺得到了相应的发展,同时面临着严峻的挑战,梳理总结传统技艺发展演变历史,深入挖掘传统技艺所蕴含的文化内涵,对振兴传统工艺,保护和弘扬民族传统文化具有深远意义。 本文在前人研究基础上,通过对相关文献史料的深入挖掘和系统整理,从技术史角度梳理了蒙古族传统肉食加工技艺的历史演变脉络,并结合田野调查,对蒙古族传统肉食加工技艺及其文化渊源进行了深入研究,主要研究内容及观点如下: 其一,蒙古族肉食加工技艺历史悠久,自成体系。蒙古高原特殊的自然地理环境决定了蒙古族以游牧为主的生产方式,进而确定了他们“食肉饮酪”的饮食特点。为了满足生存需求,蒙古族在游牧生产中所积累的分群放牧、分工管理、四季轮牧、防疫技术等传统放牧技术,为绿色肉产品的安全肉源提供了保障。传承至今的“断脉屠宰法”(öröčelehü)、 “椎击屠宰法”等传统屠宰技艺,源自他们原始信仰和“敬畏生命”、 “和谐共存”的民族心理。利用天然能源贮藏肉食的技艺,体现了蒙古族对肉食腐坏原理的准确认知和合理应用,体现了合理调配生活资源加以运用的民族智慧。蒙古族传统肉食烹饪方法以烤炙、煮制、灌煨为主,并以封闭环境锁住营养、以原汁原味体现风味、以搭配食材提高营养等鲜明的特点,彰显了蒙古族物尽其用、强调营养和注重节俭的价值观念。因此,从养殖、屠宰、贮存、烹饪至营养,蒙古族传统肉食加工技艺脉络清晰,具有系统性。 其二,随着社会的变迁,蒙古族传统肉食加工技艺得到了传承和发展,同时面临着前所未有的困境。笔者就蒙古族传统“断脉屠宰法”、 “椎击屠宰法”、肉食风干和冷冻贮存技艺、石头烤全羊技艺等内容,赴鄂尔多斯市乌审旗、呼伦贝尔市鄂温克旗和陈巴尔虎旗、锡林郭勒盟苏尼特左旗、蒙古国肯特省等地进行了实地调查。通过拍摄记录等手段,对上述技艺进行了考察和记录,为该领域的研究和民族文化的保护和传承提供了详实的资料。对文献史料和实地调查的结果对比,发现蒙古族传统肉食加工技艺传承和发展情况不一。蒙古族“开膛屠宰法”、“椎击屠宰法”一直以来是牧民民族文化认同感的重要标志,其操作流程并无太大变化,但由于牧民生计方式的变迁,传统屠宰技艺逐渐失去了其传承发展的固有环境,掌握该技艺的牧民日渐减少。随着科技的进步,冷藏设备的普及使用,牧民生活中依赖天然资源冷冻贮存肉食现象逐渐减少,而肉食风干技艺得到了推广和发展,承载着民族文化从蒙古包走向了工厂,成为传统和现代相结合成功案例。随着民族文化相互交融,蒙古族传统肉食烹调技艺吸收了各民族烹饪理念,内容和方法上越来越趋于多样化、大众化,“烤全羊”、“手把肉”等传统美食在制作技艺上得到改善,而“宝敖德格”(boyuday)、“浩日浩克”(horxoy)等古老而独特的传统石烹技艺面临濒临消失境地。 其三,传统技艺是传统文化的载体,传统文化是传统技艺传承发展的内部动力和有力支撑。蒙古族传统肉食加工技艺不仅体现了蒙古族调配运用生活资源的娴熟技能和集体智慧,其中还蕴含着源自蒙古族原始信仰、游牧生活、文化传统的深刻内涵。蒙古族传统动物福利观、敬献德吉、长幼有序的饮食习俗、注重营养、强调健康绿色的可持续发展理念,体现了他们朴素的人、畜、自然和谐共处哲学思想和尊重生命、崇拜自然、尊重长者的传统理念。 其四,用现代食品科学理论审视蒙古族传统肉食加工技艺,发现其中既有科学合理的一面,也有不当之处,就其保护和传承,提出了相关建议。蒙古族传统屠宰技艺所秉承的核心理念与现代科学屠宰理论相近,其注重减轻牲畜痛苦的核心原则,为减少动物被宰前应急反应,提高肉质有一定作用;传统贮存肉食经验为现今肉食速冻和风干技术的发展提供了参考依据;“乳、肉、茶同用”、崇尚“暑涟”的食用习俗符合他们的生理结构,具有一定的科学合理性。而蒙古族“现宰现吃”食用习俗中存在食品安全隐患,理论上,长期食用现宰肉会导致“缺钙性”疾病,这一问题未引起人们的注意,希望将来用科学实验数据予以证明。 蒙古族传统肉食加工技艺以一种生活技能在蒙古族的生活中产生、发展,以其独特、多样的内容丰富着传统文化。梳理蒙古族传统肉食加工技艺历史发展脉络,深入挖掘其蕴含的文化内涵,用现代科学理论证明其科学合理性,对传统技艺的传承和发展将有所裨益。 关键词:蒙古族传统肉食,屠宰技艺、肉食贮存技艺、肉食烹调技艺
英文
As an essential part of the dietary culture of the nomadic people in the north of China, the Mongolia long-established dietary customs of with the rich cultural implications and unique production skills play a significant role in the diet culture of various ethnic groups in the world. There are so many researches on Mongolian dietary culture, of which exist few special studies on meat processing techniques. Moreover, the outcomes are scattered relatively, and the investigation in this direction should be deepened and improved. For a long time, meat has been occupying a profound place in Mongolian diet. The emergence, enrichment and development of Mongolian meat processing techniques are closely related to the natural geographical environment of Mongolian Plateau, production methods, and dietary structure, surviving for generations. Coming from life and serving life, all these traditional techniques with the strong regional and ethnic characteristics are the crystallization of the collective wisdom of the Mongolian people and a vital composition of the nomadic culture.With the changes of society and the development of modern science and technology, traditional skills have grown accordingly. Meanwhile, the challenges have been severe and huge. Therefore, sorting out, summarizing the history of the development of traditional skills and digging out the cultural implications contained in traditional techniques deeply have far-reaching purpose and meaning with regard to revitalizing traditional crafts, preserving and carrying forward the national traditional culture On the basis of previous work, the historic evolution of Mongolian traditional meat processing techniques was explored from the perspective of history of technology through the in-depth excavation and systematic review of the relevant historical materials. By virtue of the field investigation, the further research concerning the cultural origin of the Mongolian traditional meat processing techniques was conducted. The main viewpoints are as follows: Firstly, Mongolian meat processing techniques have a long history and is self-contained. The special natural geographical environment of the Mongolian Plateau determines the Mongolian nomadic production methods, and then their dietary characteristics of “eat meat and drink cheese”.In order to meet the survival needs, traditional grazing techniques such as group grazing, division management, four seasons rotational grazing, and epidemic prevention technologies accumulated by Mongolians in nomadic production have provided guarantees for the safe meat source of green meat products. Traditional slaughter techniques such as “broken pulse slaughtering” and “hammering slaughter” stem from their original beliefs and the national psychology of “reverence for life” and “harmonious coexistence”. The use of natural energy to store meat and meat represents the Mongolian people’s accurate knowledge and rational application of the principle of meat spoilage. It embodies the national wisdom for the rational deployment of living resources. The Mongolian traditional meat cooking methods mainly involves roast, boil, and irrigation. And its distinctive features such as keeping the nutrition in a closed environment, reflecting flavors with original flavors, and improving nutrition with ingredients, highlights the best use of Mongolian ingredients, emphasis on nutrition, and stress on frugality. Therefore,from the cultivation, slaughtering, storage, cooking to nutrition, the Mongolian traditional meat processing techniques are clear and systematic. Secondly, with the vicissitude of society, Mongolian traditional meat processing techniques have been inherited and developed, and meanwhile, they are standing up with unprecedented difficulties. For the benefit of better and deeper research, “broken pulse slaughtering” and “hammering slaughter”, meat-drying and frozen-storage techniques, stone-roasted cuisine of lamb, and the cuisine of soup, and so forth were investigated by field surveys at Wushenqi, Ordos, Ewenkiqi and Chenbaerhuqi in the Hulunbeier City, Sunitelqi in the Xilin Gol League within Inner Mongolia together with Kent Province in Mongolia Through effective approaches such as filming and recording, the techniques mentioned above have been thoroughly investigated and recorded, which really provides detailed information for the research in this field and the protection and inheritance of ethnic cultures. Compared the historical data of literature with the results of field surveys, it demonstrates the differences among the inheritance and development of Mongolian traditional meat processing techniques. The Mongolian”split breast slaughtering” and “hammering slaughter” have always been the important symbols of the identity of the herdsmen’s national culture. The operation process has not changed much, but due to the changes in the livelihoods of the herdsmen, the traditional slaughtering techniques have gradually lost their inheritance and development of the inherent environment and the number of people mastering the skills is declining. With the advancement of science and technology and the widespread use of refrigeration equipment, the phenomenon of reliance on natural resources for frozen storage of meat in herdsmen’s lives has been gradually reduced while the meat-drying technique has been promoted, developed, as the carrier of national culture from yurts to factories, and become the successful combination of the traditional and modern. As ethnic cultures are blended with each other, the Mongolian traditional meat cooking techniques have absorbed the culinary ideas of various ethnic groups. The contents and methods have become increasingly diversified and popular. Traditional cuisines such as “grilled whole lamb” and “hand-knotted meat” are being used to improve skills. However, ancient and unique traditional stone cooking techniques such as “boγudaγ” and “horxoγ” were on the verge of extinction. Thirdly, traditional craftsmanship is the carrier of traditional culture. Traditional culture is the internal force and supportive of the inheritance of traditional craftsmanship. The Mongolian traditional meat processing techniques not only embody the skill and collective wisdom of the Mongolian people in the deployment of living resources, but also contain profound connotations derived from the Mongolian primordial beliefs, nomadic life, and cultural traditions. The concept of Mongolian traditional animal welfare, the tribute to the moral and the auspicious, the hierarchical eating habits among the young and the elderly, the emphasis on nutrition and the concept of sustainable development of seeking health and greenness reflect their simple philosophy of harmonious coexistence of people, animals with nature, as well as the traditional idea of the respect for life and the worship for nature, the esteem for the elderly. Fourthly, the modern food science theory was used to examine the Mongolian traditional meat processing techniques. It is found that there are both scientific and rational aspects as well as improper ones. Through the detailed analysis from the perspectives of the intangible cultural heritage protection, the suggestions on the inheritance and improvement are provided. The core concept of Mongolian traditional slaughtering arts is similar to the modern science slaughtering theory. The focus on the core principles of mitigating the suffering of livestock avoids the emergency reaction of animals before being slaughtered so that the quality of the meat can be ensured. The traditional experience of storing meat can provide a reference basis for the development of meat quick-frozen and air-drying technology. That the eating customs of “milk meat tea with the same use” and “summer heat ripples” conform to their physiological structure has certain scientific rationality. However, there is a hidden danger of food safety in Mongolian’s “slaughter and eat now” food habits. In theory, long-term consumption of freshly-slaughtered meat will lead to “calcium deficiency” diseases. This problem has not attracted people’s attention, and scientific experimental data are expected to be applied to prove it in the near future. As a life skill, Mongolian traditional meat processing techniques have been produced and developed continually in Mongolian life, which enriches traditional culture with its unique and diverse contents. With the vicissitude in the livelihoods of pastoralists, the traditional crafts gradually have ever lost their space for the development and now turn out to become the physical object that need be protected by mankind. The scientific rationality was proved by modern scientific theories, which should be beneficial to the inheritance and development of the traditional crafts. KEY WORDS: Traditional Mongolian meat food,slaughter skills, meat storage techniques, meat cooking techniques